On my recent trip to Australia I had to deal with lighting issues. Traveling light I brought 2 Lowel Pro-lights and a Lowel Tota-lite with me. I used voltage convertors so I could run them, and left my camera on 60 hz at 30 fps. Normally that worked fine except for one interview.
This interview I only used only one fill with the majority of the light flooding in from windows. There was some florescent lighting also in the room. As the interview progressed, the sun started setting and the exposure changed and the florescent lighting ratio became more prominent, and the 50hz caused some real strobing and flickering problems.
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It’s important to understand why we get this flickering effect. All florescent flicker, but our eyes and brain tune it out. Most video cameras have rolling shutters and that is what causes problems. As the shutter rolls across the frame it catches a small part of the flickering if the shutter is not in sequence with the flicker of the florescent. Global shutters would fix this problem. In the US the voltage is 60hz so you need a shutter speed of 1/60 and 30fps. For countries with 50hz you need 1/50 and 25fps.
Prevention is key. Set your shutter speed in the US to 1/25 and shoot by florescent and you can generate flicker. This is a real concern if you are using a DSLR. The SONY FS700 takes care of this for you. If you buy it in the US it comes set for 60hz and you don’t have access to the 1/25 shutter speed. When traveling you can switch the FS700 to 50hz and then have access to the 1/25 shutter speed. Be advised that you should start with blank media as you will have to format the card when switching between 50hz and 60hz. I suppose the FS100 has the same feature in the main menu.
You can download the video at the Vimeo link below and scroll through the image frame by frame and you’ll see what you are up against. I would advise downloading as the Vimeo compression does a number on the resolution and makes it difficult to really evaluate the problem or the solution.
Of course if you are reading this right now as a result of a search for your problem you will have your own footage to examine! To really demonstrate this you need to see a shot at night, lit only by an out of phase florescent, it is truly hideous.
I found only one fix that is practical, it is using Boris FX BCC Flicker Fixer found in the Boris Continuum Complete package. Nothing else seems to work. It is an expensive program. I don’t know about you but I don’t feel like spending 3x what the program costs to buy a bunch of plugins, most of which just slow your program down. They have now broken the program up in sections, but the image restoration program is still $299.
At this writing Boris has a trial period, so you can do what I did. I downloaded the plugin, saved my work and exported the video. Later after the trial expired Boris makes the plugin unusable. When you are done you will need to use their uninstaller. If you try to use it there are several methods to chose from. I found the simplest method with no options to work best for me.
In all fairness to Boris at the time they had the complete product marked on sale 1/2 off on their web site. I tried to buy it, wanting to compensate them, but when I tried to check out the sale price was cancelled. I called and asked what was up and they said the sale was over, and that I should ignore the price as advertised on their web site.
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So be advised to be careful when shooting by florescent. If you are not you can trash your video and you will be out of luck unless you have deep pockets and can afford the program.